In Verona, we don’t just do sequins and colourful masks; the Carnival is a historic event rooted in the city’s culture and steaming pots of gnocchi!
When is Venerdì Gnocolar?
The Carnival period does not seem to have a fixed starting date. It has deep roots in the country’s pagan tradition (merriment and music chase away the darkness of winter and open the door to spring), but nowadays it is a moveable feast preceding the period of Lent. Commonly, it therefore takes place between January and the end of February: 70 days before Easter. The atmosphere of joy gradually increases and reaches its peak in the last week.
- Maundy Thursday: the beginning of an entire ‘fat’ week. Different regions in Italy and around the world have different traditions and meanings behind each one.
- Venerdì Gnocolar: una festa popolare veronese molto amata che ricade nel pieno dei festeggiamenti di Carnevale.
- Carnival Sunday: the parades of floats and chaos continue in the rest of Italy. It is traditional to binge on ‘fritole’, galani, gnocchi, meat and any other delicacy associated with abundance.
- Mardi Gras: the last ‘abundant’ day before fasting. People try to consume as much food as possible as soon as possible and it seems that the name ‘Carnival’ derives from the Latin ‘carnem levare’.
- Ash Wednesday: on Shrove Tuesday all celebrations also end and the sober period of Lent begins.
What is it about?
We are talking about a very significant Veronese folk festival because it pays homage to an event that took place in the San Zeno district around 1500. Referred to locally as ‘Baccanal del Gnoco’ (in reference to the liveliness of the event), it becomes an annual event that consists of parties, parades, masks, and costumes. There will be music, food, and tons of gnocchi.
But why?
This refers to a real-life event that has been passed down as a legend, set in the distant 1531; following continuous flooding of the river Adige and the climate of war in the adjacent regions. At the height of an unprecedented famine, the city’s bakeries closed their doors, denying resources to the people of Verona who were too poor to afford the precious bread. These extreme measures inspired an uprising by the inhabitants of the neighborhood, seeking the few resources available.
Noble benefactors including doctor Tommaso da Vico intervened, feeding the townspeople with bread, flour and most importantly hot and delicious gnocchi for everyone. This gesture became an annual event also thanks to da Vico’s will, as expressed in his will (still preserved in the State Archives).
The doctor is paid homage with the figure of the ‘Papà del Gnocco’ (a kind man with a beard and a giant dumpling held by an equally giant fork). The character would later become the town’s representative carnival mask. To hold this role is considered an honor by the Veronese, who democratically elect their patron saint of the ‘gnocco’ with great enthusiasm.
What to expect the week of Gnocolar Friday?
The Carnival period does not seem to have a fixed starting date. It has deep roots in the country’s pagan tradition (merriment and music chase away the darkness of winter and open the door to spring), but nowadays it is a moveable feast preceding the period of Lent. Commonly, it therefore takes place between January and the end of February: 70 days before Easter. The atmosphere of joy gradually increases and reaches its peak in the last week.
Feeling peckish? We decided to collect all our culinary recommendations in one place online. Traditional “bettoles” that prepare the best boiled meat, traditional oddities to taste, the best restaurants frequented only by locals. Why not pop in and ask ‘fasìo i gnochi?’.
We look forward to seeing you!
